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Sleeves...
 
Arabic vest with cut-outs on sleeves.


This is two parts: a rectangle of pink chiffon is hemmed all around, with a narrow casing with 1/4" elastic at top to keep it in place. It's worn tucked up underneath the beaded fringe armband that matches the bra and belt.


Fabric bands matching the hat and skirt, with chiffon attached. There is a narrow piece of elastic inserted to keep the bands in place.

Spandex sleeves, made from a leotard pattern, with narrow elastic in top edge, worn tucked under the beaded, draped armbands.


Sleeves made from the left-over corner pieces of a circle skirt, attached to a grosgrain ribbon for the band base.

This was another jacket I made, adding 1" slats of metallic knit fabric to the sleeves and body before stitching the underarm seams closed.

Armbands using a sequin motif with ribbon fringe.

Sleeves made from the same metallic fabric as the skirt, hemmed following the zigzag pattern of the fabric.

And more sleeves...

Another sleeve made from metallic ribbon trim with an undersleeve of a sheer metallic organza.

Another spandex sleeve, with a sequin applique premade then glued onto the sleeve while flat, then the seam is sewn closed. The beaded fringe armband is not attached.

This armband was made using a piece of the leopard print knit that matched the bra and belt base. It was covered with sequins, then the ribbon fringe was added.

This was another beaded fringe armband set, plus wrist gloves made from spandex. The sequin applique was premade, then glued onto the fabric before the seam was stitched.

This is another 'tube' jacket, with elastic sequin trim added at elbows.

My Peri/Gold costume, with an open tube of fabric matching the skirt. There is a plastic comb on the center of a long edge to hold it in my hair, then the corners are knotted at the elbows.

This is an asymetrical look, with a ruffle of organza on one wrist, and a fabric sleeve that matches the ruffled skirt on the opposite arm.

The "Erte" Tube Sleeve: Another tube, but this one's for sleeves

This is a semi-sheer metallic tube fabric, measured from shoulder to wrist, then hemmed, held on by a narrow piece of ribbon across the back of the neck.

These sleeves were made from tiger print Spandex, lined with a magenta metallic foil tricot knit, then held in place by four narrow strips across the back.

Sleeves!

Variations on a Theme

Jackets first: they do have sleeves, ya know? Starting with...

The Butterfly or Batwing...

My Black Iris "Morgana" costume, photo taken at the Fantasia Bellydance Festival, Seattle, 1985. This jacket was one of my more "difficult to explain how to make" pieces. The outer fabric, about 3-4 yards of a 45" wide, drapey, ribbon-stripe polyester, was supported on sleeves and shoulders by a tight-fitting, sheer, nude-colored spandex. I used Jehlor's Arab vest pattern for the back of the vest, and a leotard sleeve pattern for the undersleeves. With the undersleeve still open flat, the outer polyester was then hand pleated and hand stitched in place, the metallic trim added, then the undersleeve seams were stitched closed by machine. It was a bit of an ordeal to make, and then to put on, but it was a very dramatic costume piece! By the way, there was about 90 yards of the black iris metallic trim added to this jacket!

         

 

My updated "Snake" costume: there are actually two sets of sleeves you see here. The outer jacket was my oversized, 60" radius veil that I pinned and made into a butterfly-type jacket, while underneath I wore fitted spandex sleeves with 6" rayon fringe sewn into the seam.

Two more butterfly jackets, made without a pattern, and big shoulder pads inserted in the shoulders. Very "1980'ish!"

 

The Tube...

    

    

Five jackets, based on a "tube," two with added ruffles in same fabric, one with contrasting fabric, one with a cuff of metallic fabric, and the white jacket is made from a 60" long glitter scarf.

 

The Ghawazee or Arabic...

    

    

These were all based on the Ghawazee coat or Arabic vest patterns by Jehlor, with the exception being the snake costume. For that vest I substituted the set-in sleeve pattern for a simple rectangle, slit open on top and caught at elbow level. It gave more room for movement and eliminated the gusset you would need at the underarm.

 

And the simple....

    

Left: brass snake armbands. Right: another draped armband. It looks like it's attached to the bra permanently, but it's actually connected with a hook just behind the base of the bra strap above where it attaches to the bra cups.

    

Left: fabric rectangles, hemmed all around, with a narrow casing at top, then elastic is inserted into casing to hold the sleeves in place. Right: beaded fringe armbands to match the bra and belt.

This effect is a little more elaborate, and uses the same light-weight metallic trim as in my black iris jacket above. Each band is made from 5/8" grosgrain ribbon, with a small piece of elastic opening in the uppermost band, and a snap fastener in the wrist bands.

    

Left: another experiment, this time using maribou boas attached to sequin arm and wrist bands. Right: my Red Flame bra and belt again, with armband drapes. The sheer sleeve is not attached.

My friend Jennifer modeling my Magenta/Turquoise Animal. The sleeves, body and leggings are made of Spandex, and the black iris bra has the draped armbands. The sleeves are worn tucked up under the beaded armbands.

 

Coming up ~ Skirts!


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