Sleeves!
Variations on a Theme
Jackets first: they do have sleeves, ya know? Starting with...
The Butterfly or Batwing...
My Black Iris "Morgana" costume, photo taken at the Fantasia Bellydance Festival, Seattle, 1985. This jacket was one of my more "difficult to explain how to make" pieces. The outer fabric, about 3-4 yards of a 45" wide, drapey, ribbon-stripe polyester, was supported on sleeves and shoulders by a tight-fitting, sheer, nude-colored spandex. I used Jehlor's Arab vest pattern for the back of the vest, and a leotard sleeve pattern for the undersleeves. With the undersleeve still open flat, the outer polyester was then hand pleated and hand stitched in place, the metallic trim added, then the undersleeve seams were stitched closed by machine. It was a bit of an ordeal to make, and then to put on, but it was a very dramatic costume piece! By the way, there was about 90 yards of the black iris metallic trim added to this jacket!
My updated "Snake" costume: there are actually two sets of sleeves you see here. The outer jacket was my oversized, 60" radius veil that I pinned and made into a butterfly-type jacket, while underneath I wore fitted spandex sleeves with 6" rayon fringe sewn into the seam.
Two more butterfly jackets, made without a pattern, and big shoulder pads inserted in the shoulders. Very "1980'ish!"
The Tube...
Five jackets, based on a "tube," two with added ruffles in same fabric, one with contrasting fabric, one with a cuff of metallic fabric, and the white jacket is made from a 60" long glitter scarf.
The Ghawazee or Arabic...
These were all based on the Ghawazee coat or Arabic vest patterns by Jehlor, with the exception being the snake costume. For that vest I substituted the set-in sleeve pattern for a simple rectangle, slit open on top and caught at elbow level. It gave more room for movement and eliminated the gusset you would need at the underarm.
And the simple....
Left: brass snake armbands. Right: another draped armband. It looks like it's attached to the bra permanently, but it's actually connected with a hook just behind the base of the bra strap above where it attaches to the bra cups.
Left: fabric rectangles, hemmed all around, with a narrow casing at top, then elastic is inserted into casing to hold the sleeves in place. Right: beaded fringe armbands to match the bra and belt.
This effect is a little more elaborate, and uses the same light-weight metallic trim as in my black iris jacket above. Each band is made from 5/8" grosgrain ribbon, with a small piece of elastic opening in the uppermost band, and a snap fastener in the wrist bands.
Left: another experiment, this time using maribou boas attached to sequin arm and wrist bands. Right: my Red Flame bra and belt again, with armband drapes. The sheer sleeve is not attached.
My friend Jennifer modeling my Magenta/Turquoise Animal. The sleeves, body and leggings are made of Spandex, and the black iris bra has the draped armbands. The sleeves are worn tucked up under the beaded armbands.
Coming up ~ Skirts!

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